Sunday, January 20, 2008

Blank Doll heads east.

I was told that certain cuisines cannot be replicated in Singapore due to its climes and as a result, we are only ever sampling an approximation of them. A sort of gastronomic precis, something to entice us to search for the real thing.


Korean food is apparently one of these cuisines where even kimchi cannot be replicated convincingly since the cabbage used should be harvested in winter and the Singaporean variety pales in comparison. Eating at Su Cuisine at Far East Plaza, hardly the glammest of places, the food was emphatically average. The seafood pancake was exceedingly greasy and the service sketchy at best. The marinated beef proved a saving grace and pickled lotus root was quite refreshing. Nothing to write back home about but which I dutifully report here.


Hong Kong style dimsum is something that can be done in Singapore and which is regularly done quite well. At the Cathay Restaurant, order the custard buns by the dozen and wolf them down like the glutton you are. Savoury and sweet, the molten custard oozes out of steaming buns faintly perfumed with milk and yeast. The crispy yam puffs are like clouds of greaseless fried dough and will blow you away. Equally good are the barbequed pork buns, delicate and without the slightest trace of fat, and rice rolls with shards of dough fritters. Ask for the sauteed scallops with egg white and truffle oil.


Locals adore the elusive food bargain and are masochists in their need for long queues in humid surroundings where food is served with lacklustre service. Let it not be said that I do not know a no-frills bargain when I see one. Sashimi at Sakuraya is one such place where fresh slivers of fish are selected from a daily range and cut to your preference. Without needing to be said, the toro was fresh and not overpriced like toro is wont to be here. Slices of tai, swordfish and hamachi were perfect for a hot night and thin sheathes of scallops ended the meal nicely. Ask for the fried yellowtail collar, eaten with chopped daikon and lemon. If only they served grated horseradish, ponzu to go with the hamachi and better service. The open space kitchen concept only works if your sashimi chefs are silent masters hard at work and not hollering across the restaurant. Definitely no-frills.


Sick of the skinny tie already (fashionable for all of two weeks last year), perhaps a pared down cravat style should come back in style. Meanwhile, for the New Year, eschew showy brands (Versace, etc) or the commonplace (Zara, etc) and instead, get yourself a tailor. Singapore abounds with les petits mains who will make you a good shirt and pants for a very good price. The trick is to pay attention to the fabric (silk, dress wool, two ply Egyptian cotton, no synthetics) and then work very closely with your tailor. You're going to wear it in the end but let his experience guide you on what's done and what's not.


A good rule is that whatever looks good in Tokyo does not translate well in Singapore.


C'est tout.

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